Thursday 18 August 2016

When you are blessed to be in one of the most providential places in the world for fine foods you should take more time reading up on what is on offer in order to fully appreciate it.

The first time I came to Galicia I simply experienced the cuisine. This time I have attempted to refine my experience. If my host allows a third trip at his pleasure then no doubt this will be another level of gastronomic delight.

My most recent foray into fine cuisine has been Jamon. We visited a deli yesterday morning to order some wine, including the excellent Terras Gauda AlbariƱo of which I still have one bottle at home. Truly beautiful. But we were blessed in the fact that there was a guy slicing and preparing Jamon for sale. Not any old Jamon however and this became apparent when I was given a sample. It was the most intense and beautiful flavour ever. One cannot begin to describe it effectively in words. In fact one journalist went so far as to say it was the most perfect taste in the world. This, dear readers, was bellota Jamon aka acorn ham, named after the diet of the pigs that go into making it.

Jamon is given different bands and headings depending on the diet of the pigs, the hanging time, the quality of the pigs involved; all sorts of things. The stuff you can get in Aldi at Christmas time is far removed from the best on offer here. I saw Bellota Jamon advertised for nearly £2000 a leg in the UK. Still overpriced but considering the taste I can see why some pay it. If you ever get the chance then do it!

Pigs form a huge part of the gastronomic experience of Spain. Part of their popularity, legend has it, is down to the expelling of Muslims and Jews and to test whether you were a true Christian you were fed pork. Whether this is true or not, I have certainly had my fair share of pork already. In this respect, as in others, I can be called Christian.

Today I travelled up into the hills to be fed a 3 course meal with half a litre of wine plus coffee for €8.50. It was, apparently, typical Galician food. We had fried pescaditos or fish to start with a beautifully dressed green leaf salad. The main was pork stew, affectionately known as 'everything but the tail.' A delightful smokey stew flavoured by an intense ring of chorizo, there were borlotti beans and cabbage as well as potato and pigs ear, boiled ribs and loin steak. It resembled the pink intensity of gammon but without the saltiness. A real contrast from the Jamon but still well received. There were nearly 100 diners each coming to taste this genuine food. Yet again I was the only non-Spanish speaker there but this only added to the experience. I do enjoy not having to hear tedious discussion or indeed let other hear mine!!!

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